Kala chana!

The hole-in-the-wall

Finding non-animal-based protein in Bhutan is a daunting challenge. A couple of restaurants in Thimphu serve tofu-based dishes, and yes, lentils have managed to cross the border from India and thus some kind of dal preparation often accompanies the ubiquitous heap of rice. But otherwise, eating out usually means little protein and lots of carbohydrates: noodles, rice, potatoes, roti.

It was a fantastic surprise to find a small hole-in-the-wall (literally!) place just across our office, a few shops down from the rice mill, bearing the unassuming name of K.P General Shop, which serves a warm, spicy and delicious plate of protein-rich Punjabi-style "dry" kala chana (small black chickpeas) curry. The dish is prepared daily by - who else - Auntie. Mixed with fresh peas and garnished, if you so desire, with a heap of fresh chopped chillies, this is a perfect fast food.

A small plate costs Nu 10, and many patrons opt for two. Tea and coffee are also available. There's a red plastic table and four matching chairs for "al fresco dining", and on sunny days it's an off-the-beaten-track spot where you can increase your vitamin D reserves, listen to the flow of water in the nearby (polluted) stream, and watch the world go by.

Kala Chana Curry (dry, of course)